Hardware
Choosing Rivets, Snaps, and Chicago Screws
Rivets, Chicago screws, and snaps solve different problems — permanent joins, serviceable/adjustable joins, and closures. This guide covers how to size Heritage's real rivet and Chicago screw stock to a leather stack, plus general snap guidance (Heritage doesn't currently stock snaps).
What each fastener actually does
A rivet makes a permanent mechanical join — once set, separating the pieces means drilling it out. Heritage stocks Double-Cap Rivets, where both sides show a finished cap, in Brass and Stainless Steel. A Chicago screw is a two-piece post-and-barrel that threads together, giving the same permanent-feeling join but one that can be disassembled with a screwdriver — useful anywhere a strap or panel might need to come apart later (adjustable belts, holsters with swappable components). Heritage stocks these in the same two finishes.
A snap is a closure, not a structural join — it lets two panels open and close repeatedly (wallets, flaps, cases). Heritage doesn't currently stock snaps; this guide covers snap fundamentals for planning purposes, without a product to link to.
Sizing a rivet or screw to the leather stack
Post length has to clear the full stack of material it's going through — every layer of leather, plus any lining — with enough extra length to set properly (a rivet needs enough post to peen over; a Chicago screw needs enough thread engagement to seat fully). Too short and the fastener can't close or set correctly; too long and it either won't seat flush or has to be trimmed, adding a step and a risk of a bad cut.
Measure the actual stack with calipers rather than estimating from the nominal leather weight alone — see the leather weight guide on why the ounce label is a range, not an exact figure.
Leather stack thickness → recommended post length margin
| Stack thickness (measured) | Chicago screw sizes to consider | Rivet sizes to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 3/16 in (single 4-5 oz layer) | 1/8 in, 3/16 in | 6 mm, 7 mm |
| 3/16-1/4 in (single heavier layer or thin lamination) | 3/16 in, 1/4 in | 7 mm, 8 mm |
| 1/4-3/8 in (laminated or two mid layers) | 1/4 in, 5/16 in, 3/8 in | 9 mm, 10 mm |
| 3/8 in and up (heavy laminated stacks) | 3/8 in, 1/2 in | 10 mm, 12 mm |
Common mistakes
- Sizing the fastener to the nominal leather weight instead of the measured stack.
Why it matters: A laminated stack or a hide that runs thick within its weight tier can be noticeably thicker than the nominal ounce number suggests, leaving too little post to set properly.
Fix: Measure the actual assembled stack with calipers before ordering, and choose from the table above with a small margin rather than the exact minimum.
- Mixing Brass and Stainless Steel finishes on hardware that's visible together.
Why it matters: The two finishes read as clearly different metals side by side, which usually looks unintentional rather than deliberately mixed.
Fix: Pick one finish for all visible hardware on a piece unless a mixed-metal look is a deliberate design choice.
- Using a rivet where the project will realistically need to be serviced or adjusted later.
Why it matters: A rivet is permanent — removing one means drilling it out and usually leaves a visible mark.
Fix: Use a Chicago screw anywhere the join might reasonably need to come apart (adjustable straps, swappable panels), and reserve rivets for genuinely permanent joins.
Heritage recommendation
Measure the finished stack, use the table above to land on a size range, and match finish to the piece's other hardware. For snaps, Heritage doesn't currently stock a product — plan the closure into the pattern and source separately until that changes, or check back on the Hardware category.